Shoe and method of making same



Aug. 29, 1933. v DE Us@ 1,924,542

sHoE AND METHOD 0F MAKING SAME Filed April 21,l 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet l ,\1/ ATTORNEY Aug. 29, 1933. v. DE U50 1,924,542

y SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 2l. 1932 2 *Sheets-Sheet 2 /NVENTOR d Patented Aug. 29, 1933 l Y UNiTaDfs'TATEs signor to PalterDe Liso Inc., NewYork, N. 17.,"- f ,A a'corporatio'nof New York 1 The present invention relates to an. improved process for the manufacture `o f'shoes andto the improved shoe obtained thereby. More specically, my invention .relates to'fan -`5 improved process for making shoes which corn,-

bines certain features of the hand turnedprocess with theA advantageous features of `the pasting process. Mynovelprocess may be applied to the manufacture of either open shank or closed shank shoes. s H

` fIfhe manufacture of shoes by the hand turned process produces, as is well known, a shoe of su-4 perior quality due largely tothe fact `that the sole of the shoe is formed of one piece, so that nov squeaking such as results Vfrom relativeV sliding and friction between the inner and outer. soles of double-soled shoes can occur, while at the same time the sole is pliable and flexible and shapes itself comfortably to the foot.` The manufacture of shoes bywthis process,- howeven has a serious disadvantage in that after the first lasting, when the upper` is turned inside out and attached'to the sole, it is an extremely diicult and timeconsuming .operation gto remove the shoe from the last, vthe upper usually having tobe moistened toenable it tovbe stretched over the wooden last. As a result themanufacture of turnedY sole shoes requires a considerable expenditure of time which correspondingly'increases thecost-of the shoes* 'disadvantage .thatfin-t-following it, it is diflicult properly to-shape the arch and heel-portion of the "shoe7 [so that` while the sole portionpf the shoe isiin many respects superior to that vof welt- -ed Yandpasted'shoes `produced by known processes; the rear portionjof y,the shoe `Was frequently `not well lasted `and lacked the iitting andwear- `ing qualitiesof shoes produced by'other known processes, suchas welted shoes lor pasted-shoes.`

40 With respect to pastedor-Welted shoe`s,on -the .other'hand, amore substantialand long wearing shoe is obtained due to the greater thickness andv strength of thetwo soles (outsole and insole) employed inzthe 'pasting orzfwelting process. Pasted or welted shoes, however, have the' disadvantage that the sole portion is usually too thick, heavy and stiffand in addition there `frequently occurred relativesliding movement between the insole and the .filler portion between the soles which caused the rhighly` undesirablelsqueaking.

`It is the object of thelpresent invention to provide an improved processfor the manufacture of Ashoes which embodiesthe `advantages= of both of jectV tothe disadvantages of neither. The present Applicatinnpfii 2.11932Q sefialNe. 666,6451 eolaims.` 1(01. 12;14z) n Y y the `above-mentioned processes` while being sub- Y invention'.contemplatesya process 'which maybe im considered to be a combinationjof 'the-turned sole and the pasting or welting processes,a`nd is characterizedbyrthe productionof a `shoe which A has the light weight'and comfort of a 'turned s ,69. Asole shoeand thesturdiness' and iittingqualities of apastedor WeltedA shoe.f Itis afurther'bf duces to a very considerable extentfthe timeand ject` of 'theinvention to fproifflidek an 4 improved Yprocess for the manufacture fof shoes xii/' hc'zli` re-` also `thel'abor `required for the making of" shces;

wearing quality and reduced cost.

Yand in general to provide aV shoe of improved Described generally, the present invention pro;

vides a process for making aV novel typeof shoe which. along its: forward or soleportionis turned and sewn but along its. shank and heel portions it is pasted. On'e of the features of my invention resides in the use of aV strip of leatheras the complete sole of thevshtoe; whi'chstrip'is of'oneupieceand'is `of substantially the thickness of a'sole of a turned sole shoe and is `channelledV along thesole i portion thereof '(i; Vel fromthe ball region `,T Jojth'e j, i v 1 toe) and is split` along thereinainder thereofA so as to provide two heel sections one abovefthe other;

The lower, or outer,`of the heel portions is madeto serve as therheelbreasting' andioutersolawhile the upper heelfsec'tion is'` designed to be attached J Y to the upper, and acts as ther-inner solefthesarne to the upper surface ofthle forward crfsle por-v tionofthe sole; to .be foldedsunder the insole lsection of the heel portion for the'purpose dof fitting the upper neatly ,into Athe sole.

In accordance withY the invention,` y chanlnelledsole portion of the sole is sewn to the upper attached to thelastbutjarenot permanently attached to the upper.V The shoe vis'thenwvrenioved .l from the last andturnedright sideout and the' counters inserted and the second lastingbegumpby l.which the upperheelsection is lasted andat- Duringthis Y tached'to the upper upon thefins'ide surfaceof" the latter, by the known cementing fprocessthe A-shank inserted and the heel attached, andthe l 'lower sectionl o f thetheel, i. e. theibreasting, then cemented to the vouter surface of the upper; tof the shank, and to the breast of the heel.

My,l invention will be described in Agreaterfdetail im 1 in connection with the accompanying drawings 'l whichshow by Way of v'example a preferred em-v bodiment of the invention. In said drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective View of thesole employed in my vimproved process, the heel section being split as shown;v

Fig. 2 is a View similar to Fig. 1 but shows the sole channelled for stitching along the forward or sole portion-thereof and skived at the'heell sec-V tions;

Fig. 3 is `a longitudinal section along the line 3 -3 of Fig.2. Y

Fig. 4 is a View showinglthe shoe upon' a last and turned inside out during the Yrst lasting operation, the forward or sole portionofmthe sole being sewn, totheupper;l 1 Fig. 5 isia viewshowingthe shoeupon a last during* the second lasting operation, ythe'A shoe' having been lturned and the upper being, drawn in between the two heel sections; and

Fig. 6 is a view .similar to Fig. 5 but showing the completedrshoe, thelower heel section of the sole being broken away. s

e The sole10 shownin Figflmaybe'offthe thick# Y nessusually employed inzturned 'sole shoes. 'Ac'- i yalong'the heelsection'thereof, i. e. from the heel vcording to the present invention, the solev is split j 11 to approximatelythe ball region 12,v thereby Vproducingthe.upper and lower sections 13'and 14 ofapproximately equalthickness.` .If desired, the

Y' than the section 14. The forward or sole portion cut maybe somade that the section 13 is thicker Y 1.011.l of the sole 1 0 is then channelled and a shoulv'region of. the foot.

7 der V formed. on the edge inV known manner," as shown atl5, 15ain Fig. 2; the channelling extendingfrom the toe portion-to approximately the ball which is vto serveV as the heel breasti'ng, is then skived down to the desired thinness, as can be more readily seen, in Fig. 3, while'if desiredjthe upper heel section 13 may be VsimilarlyV skived v though not to as great a degree; for example, to ra Athickriessof about 1/8`inch. The upper heelsectiori is notched, asshown at 12aI across the chan- 5 nel 15 at approximately its inner 'end for a purpose f that these'v several 'operations upon the sole may 1 tofbe described hereinafter- It `will'be understood be performedI in. any desired order, although the "sequence v indicated is preferred by me.

f The upper .heel section 13, vwhich maybe referred to as the insole, may then Vvbe supported upon Vand stiffened bya strip of ber or board which is glued `or otherwise attached to such insole.

The shoe is then lasted the turned sole process, asis well knownin the art, by turning the upper 17 andvitslining 18 inside out and sewing it and its lining to the upper side of the sole Y11i) along thechannelling, Veither-byrhand or by machine vas Vshown inFig. 4. This operationis well lunderstood inthe art and needlnot be described in detail. The upper is thus stitched either by hand or by machineto .the sole portion 10a of the sole l0 fromthe region of the ball tothe toe,alo`n g` the Vlinef of stitching 16. the heel portion of the sole beingtemporarily fastened Ato the lastf'by tacks' 13a, as shown in Fig. 4.

The shoe is then removed from the last. This lremoval operation is eifected with much greater facility and speed than in the Ycase of the regular -turned sole shoe because the sole is attached to the upper alOIlg only the sole portioni thereof.

-The shoe is then lasted a second time rightsideout likewisein the manner'well knownin the turned shoe art, fas shown in Figs? 5.

During the lasting-v operation the upper is threaded through the The lower heel section V14,`

"-of the shoe isV now shaped to the heel seat'and rear portion of the last in a manner similar to that employed in a welted orl pasted shoe.- The seat is then nailed and glued and the side of the lasting cemented.. l

YThe steel shank 20 is now'applied, suchrshank i being cOVeredWith cloth or other suitable material to enable it to befcemented to` the breasting. The shank may be held in place by means of a nail'driven intol the heel seat.v A leather fillerzl as shown in Figf is now applied over the steel shank by glueing the same to the latter, the pury pose of such, iiller being to round out the arch of the" shoe land smooth the same.

The outer surfaces of the upperwhichoverlie the insole are then roughened to provide a' hold for the cement and thecement applied asin the knownfccmpo.

process. f The heel section 14 is then glued up to the heel seat which is left looseV for the heel. Finally the heel -is jacked and the'breasting 14 gluedthereto Yas shown in Fig. 6, after which th y shoe is finished inthe ordinarymanner. `f

My improved process as" above described'` thus produces a shoe having only one sole and therefore possessing the advantages of a turned sole shoe,

for the rear half of the' shoe which enables the heel vregion vof the'shoe and arch to be -better lshaped and finished.v YI have thus'provided a shoe which issewnat its forward or soleportion and cementedat its rear or heel portion. I have found by actual compariscnthat according to my-novel processtwenty-ve pairs of shoes can be `lasted according to the old turned process'. Also only vabout 40 %l of the time required for stitching shoes according toiA the old bench turned processjis required to stitch tion.

order of operations described above may be resortpended claims without departing fromA the spirit of the invention. I

I claim:

provide a relatively thin lower section and a rela-4 `tively thick upper section, channelling fthe forward portion of the solestitchingsuch Yforward heel sections to such' upper.

2. The process as set forth in claim 1, wherein portionvtolashoe'upper; and cementing the .two 135 the thick, upper heel section is cemented to the inner surfaceV ofthe shoeupperwhile theflower heel section is attached'to1-the outer surface of 1'40,

such upper. v r Y 3. The process as set forth in claim 1, rwherein the shoe upper is lasted over the upper'heel secattached to the upper, and the lower heel portion Y attached toy such shank member.

4. The method of manufacturing shoes, whichv comprises splitting a sole along the heel portion to provide a lower heel section and an upper heel section, channelling the solefportion of said. sole so that the inner endsof the channelling terminate 3-5 va shoe according'to my inven'-` o `.It will beunderstood thatvariouschanges .in the j 'Y 165 `and at the same time employs the pasted process v liol Vand second lasted in the time required for per- A forming the same operations upon eight vpairs Y' ed to and certain stepsmay be used Without others I' `r f and that the processV maybe applied'toopen or n I Y "closed shank shoes withinthe'scopeA of ther ap- 125 1. InV the manufacture of shoeathe steps which',v j comprise splitting the heel portion uffa-"sole tojl tion and iscemented thereto, a shank-member is I v' rto provide an upper and a lower heel section, skiv ing the lower portion to reduce its thickness,

channellingthe` sole portionV of the sole so that the inner-ends'of Ythe vchannelling terminate in the region ,of the ball of the shoe, notching the upper heel sectionadjacent to the inner ends of the channelling, stitching a shoe upper to said sole portion at said channelling, threading the upper through said notches so that it extends between the upper and lower heel sections, cernenting the upper to said upper heel section, shaping Vthe rear' of the shoe, forming a heel seat, applying `a shank stiffener over the upper, cementing the lower heel section to the upper as -far as theheel seat,at-

taching a heel to the heel seat, and cementing tliev still free portion of `the lower heelV section to the breast of a heel. 6. In the'manufact'ure of shoes, the steps which comprise splitting a sole along the rear portion` thereof to providev upper and lower sections, stitching an upper to theforward portion of said sole, and cementing such upper between the upper and lower rear sections.

.7. -A shoe comprising an upper, a heel, and a sole which is split along the heelfportion thereof to sub# stantially the ball region, the heel portion being thus divided-into a lower section and an'upper sec. tion, the upper being sewn to the sole portion of such sole and the upper section of 4 said heel portion being cemented.` to the upper, 'and the lowerl of said heel sections providing a breastcover for the heel. i

, 8. A shoe comprising an uppera heelQa shank, and a Sole which `is split along .the heel portion thereof to approximately the region .of the ball,

the heel portion being thus divided intov a lower' section and an upper section, lthe' forward pori i l tion of said sole being channelled andsewn to said upper, the upper section of said heel portionbeingA cemented to the' inner surface of the upper,

and the lower heel section being` cemented to the shank of thershoe,A and providing a breast coverVV for the heel. i f 9. A shoe comprising an upper, a heel, and a sole which is split along' the heel portionto approxi-k mately the region of the ball, the heel portion being thus divided into a lower section andan being channelled and sewn to the upper,`the inner mately in the region of the ball, the 'upperheel rupper section,vthe forward portion ofthe sole Vends Vof the channeuing terminating approxi-Y section being notchedadjacent tothe inner ends f i of the channelling, the upper extending from the channelling through the notches and between the heel sections, the upper `being cemented over the v upper heel section, and the lower heel section being cemented along part Aof its lengthover the uppera'nd providing a breast cover for the heel.

'VINCENT DE'LISO, v n

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